Oman Rocks, Again

What do 29 hours in Khasab, at the Northern tip of Oman, have to offer? Dhows, dolphins, and a very dramatic coastline known as the “fjords of Musandam.” Khasab is so far north on the Arabian Peninsula that our travelling companion’s phone actually welcomed him to Iran.  The waters here run through the Strait of…

Heart-Shaped Go

Some of the green traffic signals in this part of the world — the Northern Arab Emirates — light up in the shape of a heart, and some of the red ones are aglow with smiley faces. That is all I know on earth, and all I probably need to know. We lived at the…

Good Grief in the Gulf

One of the very first people who befriended me here in Ajman is named E. Her English isn’t great, or perhaps I should say my Arabic is awful, so we don’t understand each other very well. But yet know each well somehow. Last Thursday afternoon she came to wish me a good weekend — using the…